Officine Générale Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear Collection

There is a phrase that comes up halfway through a conversation with Pierre Mahéo that sums up this stubborn Frenchman: “Hard-bitten”. It loosely translates to “going all the way” or chasing something “all the way,” and Mahéo used it to find an identical color match for the silk scarves and wool sweaters in the collection. fall of Officine Generale. He wanted them to blend into each other so they were nearly indistinguishable as clothes – and he was willing to continue sampling and liaising with his suppliers until he got the match. .

This desire to refine to the nth degree permeates every aspect of his nine-year-old brand, which was founded as a stylish menswear offering and has since expanded into womenswear. No logo, no major marketing campaign, no influencer seeding program; Mahéo prefers to discreetly craft quality, European-made clothing in classic cuts that vary by just one centimeter each season. It works: The last three months of 2021 were the most successful quarter ever for the brand. E-commerce has been particularly lucrative, but he reports that two new stores in Paris and one in New York are also doing well. “I think people feel like they’re deprived of human interaction,” said Mahéo, who prefers to share anecdotes about anonymous shoppers in his stores rather than bragging about celebrity moments. “But I don’t tell the store team to sell, sell, sell. I tell them to give advice on what looks good, what goes well. Last week, a man walked into the store on Rue du Dragon to replace a worn navy crew neck sweater he had bought in 2016. “He was thrilled to find the exact style in store in our Daily Classics line,” Mahéo said. “The only thing I’m strict on is continuity. It has to be consistent.”

Lauren Hutton, who continues to promote her tomboy take on wardrobe classics 50 years after she first made it endearing, was the inspiration this season. “Those baggy pants, those baggy denims, the soft shirts, she kind of mastered them,” Mahéo said. He even opted to pair nearly all of his looks with Japanese Asahi Hutton-style vulcanized deck shoes after the original shoe designs for the show, which Mahéo canceled last week because of Omicron, weren’t. arrived in time for the lookbook shoot. There were some hard-working pieces here: a classic double-faced woolen overcoat in a Loro Piana fabric, so soft it felt like cashmere but without the price tag; a lamb suede bomber jacket with ribbed cuffs in the richest shade of khaki; cherry red velvet loose trousers; a crisp mint green wool blend sweater matched with a mint green scarf and paired with ecru jeans. “This sweater, we made it with 10% cashmere last season, we were able to increase it to 30% cashmere this season, it’s the same quality that the big luxury brands use,” he said. -He underlines. “Maybe people need a little more kindness and gentleness on a daily basis. It’s been tough outside.

You won’t see these clothes on the cover of a magazine, or on a red carpet, or on every influencer’s feed. But as Mahéo says, “there is nothing more dated than a trend”.

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